Yamaha Outboard Fasteners

Stock the right hardware and keep your Yamaha running tight. We carry bolts, screws, cotter pins, shear pins, locknuts, drain screw washers, powerhead mounting bolts and cowling fasteners — all engineered to Yamaha spec and built to survive the marine environment.

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90171-14013

Original price was: $15.73.Current price is: $15.73.

664-45384-02

Original price was: $45.05.Current price is: $45.05.

697-45384-00

Original price was: $20.02.Current price is: $20.02.

688-45384-00

Original price was: $27.89.Current price is: $27.89.

355

Original price was: $63.64.Current price is: $63.64.

90171-16011

Original price was: $21.45.Current price is: $21.45.

90171-10M01

Original price was: $15.73.Current price is: $15.73.

90171-18M04

Original price was: $17.88.Current price is: $17.88.

6G5-45384-00

Original price was: $32.18.Current price is: $32.18.

What Are Yamaha Outboard Fasteners?

Yamaha outboard fasteners cover every bolt, screw, pin and washer used to hold your engine together and mount it to your boat. That includes cowling bolts and screws, powerhead mounting bolts, lower unit drain screw washers, cotter pins, shear pins, locknuts and transom mounting hardware. Each fastener is designed to a specific torque spec and thread pitch for your engine model — swapping in the wrong part is asking for trouble on the water.

Why Using the Right Fasteners Matters

Marine environments are brutal on hardware. Salt water, constant vibration and thermal expansion cycles will work loose or corrode anything that isn’t up to spec. Using incorrect fasteners — wrong thread pitch, wrong material, wrong length — risks stripped threads, loosened components and in worst cases, structural failure. Genuine or OEM-equivalent Yamaha fasteners are specified for exactly the loads and conditions your engine deals with.

Stainless Steel vs Standard Fasteners

Not all stainless is equal, and not all Yamaha fasteners are stainless. Yamaha engineers certain hardware in specific alloys for a reason — galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals is a real issue in saltwater use. Where stainless hardware is appropriate, marine-grade 316 stainless offers significantly better corrosion resistance than 304. For saltwater boaters especially, checking the spec of any replacement fastener before fitting it is worth the 30 seconds it takes.

Check Compatibility Before You Buy

Yamaha outboard fasteners vary across engine families, model years and horsepower ratings. Before ordering, have your engine’s model number and serial number handy — these confirm the exact part numbers you need and avoid the frustration of ordering the wrong spec. If you’re unsure, contact us and we’ll help you find the right match.

FAQs

What bolts are used to mount a Yamaha outboard?

Yamaha outboards are typically mounted to the transom using stainless steel or zinc-coated bolts, usually M10 or M12 depending on the engine size and bracket type. Always refer to your owner’s manual for the correct diameter, length and torque specification for your model.

What material are Yamaha outboard fasteners made from?

It varies by application. Many Yamaha fasteners are stainless steel for corrosion resistance, while others use zinc-plated or hardened steel where strength is the priority over corrosion resistance. Internal engine fasteners are often hardened steel torqued to precise specs — material matters as much as dimensions when replacing them.

Can I use standard stainless bolts on my Yamaha outboard?

For transom mounting hardware, marine-grade 316 stainless is generally acceptable if the dimensions and thread pitch match. For engine-internal fasteners — powerhead bolts, lower unit hardware — always use the specified Yamaha part. The torque specs, thread engagement and material properties are engineered for those specific components.

What is a shear pin on a Yamaha outboard?

A shear pin is a sacrificial fastener that connects the propeller shaft to the propeller hub on smaller Yamaha outboards. It’s designed to break if the propeller strikes something solid — protecting the gearbox and driveshaft from damage. If your propeller spins but the engine isn’t propelling the boat, a broken shear pin is the first thing to check.

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