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Hard starting after the boat has sat, a rough idle, stalling at trolling speed, hesitation when you open the throttle, or fuel weeping from the carby all point to a dirty or worn carburettor. If fresh fuel and a new filter do not fix it, the carby needs a clean or a rebuild kit.
Rebuild it if the body is sound and the problem is gum, varnish or worn soft parts. Replace the whole carburettor if the casting is corroded or pitted, the threads are stripped, the mating face is warped, or the throttle shaft is worn loose. A rebuild kit fixes the majority of faults at a fraction of the cost.
A typical kit includes the gaskets, O-rings, needle and seat, float valve and the jets needed to return the carburettor to standard. Kits are matched to the engine, so order by make, model, year and horsepower.
Use a cleaner rated for use on the carburettor materials and follow the directions. Aggressive cleaners can attack rubber and plastic parts, so remove or replace the soft components before soaking the metal body, then fit the new soft parts from your rebuild kit.
Ethanol fuel goes off quickly. It oxidises within a couple of weeks and leaves gum that blocks the fine jets within about six. Use a marine fuel stabiliser, avoid leaving E10 in the tank between trips, and run the carby dry before longer storage.
No. A 2-stroke carburettor and a 4-stroke carburettor are built differently and the parts do not interchange. Always match the carburettor and rebuild kit to your exact engine type, make, model and horsepower.
A clean roughly every two years is good practice on any carburetted outboard, and sooner if you run E10, leave the boat sitting, or notice the early signs of rough running. Keeping clean fuel and a working fuel water separator upstream stretches that interval out.
Yes. Each carburettor on a multi-cylinder 2-stroke needs its own rebuild kit, and after rebuilding they should be synchronised so they open together for a smooth idle and clean throttle response.
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